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Margate Soul Food
• It takes forever to eat here, but the food is good
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Friday,
April 17, 2009
Even for those of us who didn't grow up in Puerto Rican neighborhoods in New York or on the Island, the Latin Café offers foods that are comforting and familiar, yet boasting special flavors that make them exciting and different.
Tucked in the strip mall alongside CVS on the corner of State Road 7 and Coconut Creek Parkway, the Latin Café is nothing special from the outside. In fact, you could easily pass it by.
When you do arrive, the restaurant's dance studio feel (one wall is entirely mirrors) is a bit overwhelming. But further glance reveals homey touches and colorful décor. If you're patient and can wait it out (service comes at a snail’s pace at the Latin Café), you’ll be served some pretty good food.
Among the sampling of cuchifritos (side orders); the alcapurria was pleasing. It’s a fried delight of flavorful meat in a rich, dark plantain coating. Although I'm not big on fried food, I thoroughly enjoyed the alcapurria in the greasiest sense.
The tostones (fried plantains) with mojo were authentic and crispy and the ‘guineas en escabeche’ (cold green banana salad flavored with gizzards) savory and delicious. Starchy noodles and too much sazon were a turn off in the chicken soup.
On to the entrees! The Bistec Empanado, a breaded, crispy fried steak was yummy once I smothered it with onions and garlic-laced mojo. Although the Chuletas Fritas (Fried Pork Chop) were done to perfection, the camarones a la criolla (Creole shrimp) was bland with a preponderance of salt. The yellow rice and pigeon peas were well-seasoned and distinctive but seeing “creole” in the name I expected a burst of powerful seasoning and some heat. Entrees come with salad at the Latin Café, which means scant iceberg lettuce and tomato on the side ala oil and white vinegar.
Latin Cafe desserts are forgettable. The chocolate cake looked and tasted like day old brownie. The flan had the requisite crispy bottom and delicate caramel sauce, but the custard alone was plain and a step above supermarket box mix. Coco, the house coconut soda at the Latin Cafe, satiated my sweet tooth.
When you go to the Latin Café, be patient, the food is made to order. While you wait, sit back and enjoy the Latin sounds of Puerto Rico in Margate.
Latin Café
N.Y. Style Cuchifrito
5190 Coconut Creek Pkwy. Margate, FL 33063
Phone (954) 978-8799 Fax (800) 968-9027
(SE corner of Coconut Creek Pkwy & 441, In CVS Plaza).
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Copyright Cassius Group 2009
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