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Mouthwatering Hot Pastrami at Margate’s 'The Eatery'
• New Deli in Downtown Margate serving American fare
Saturday,
August 7, 2010
Far more places in Margate serve Chimichurris, ox tail, palomilla steak and some version of a mango salad or guacomole burger than do pastrami, which makes The Eatery that much more special a place for deli fare and American home cooking in the city.
Warm and thinly-sliced. Tucked between two slices of fresh-baked rye bread ala spicy mustard.
It was the best pastrami sandwich I’ve had in years.
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Don’t shoot the messenger, but I had the Eatery put some sauerkraut on mine. That’s how I had it growing up in the Seventies when visiting my grandmother in Worcester MA. She was Lithuanian, and Worcester at the time was home to all the great cured meat sensations from the USSR. In fact, a Lithuanian butcher might have been responsible for introducing pastrami to the U.S., but more about a man named Sussman Volk later in the story.
Anyway, I was very specific in how I ordered my pastrami at The Eatery, and insistent on having it warm on fresh rye bread.
"Thick, hearty, melt in your mouth rye bread," I thought.
I knew I was in good hands when The Eatery owner and Margate resident, Jan Davis, took my order, particularly when I drilled her on The Eatery’s coleslaw, one of their handcrafted side dishes. Davis said hers is made with fresh cabbage and creamy homemade dressing, moist and crunchy, not like 'corn-syrupy' food-service brands scooped from resealable 5lb. plastic tubs.
Pastrami tastes vary. Some like it cold piled high on dark rye while yet others enjoy pastrami’s version of the Rueben: the Rachel; a pastrami-stuffed seeded-rye sandwich grilled on the flattop with melted Swiss, Bavarian sauerkraut and Russian dressing.
The origin of pastrami is most often associated with the Jewish Delis of New York. The word pastrami comes via Yiddish from the Romanian word pastramă, a term apparently borrowed from Turkish and meaning “cured meat”; it may also be related to the Romanian verb a păstra (to preserve).
Folklore dictates that a man by the name of Sussman Volk immigrated to New York from Lithuania in 1887 and set up a butcher shop. A friend asked Volk to store a suitcase in his basement while he traveled home to Romania for a few years. In exchange for the storage space, the Romanian friend gave Volk his pastrami recipe, and Volk began selling chunks of the smoked delicacy out of his butcher shop.
Volk’s pastrami became such a hit that he eventually moved his shop down a few storefronts and added tables to his new Delancy Street location, creating New York’s first delicatessen, or so say pastrami historians.
Hats off to Davis for bringing pastrami all the way from the late 1800s to Margate in the millennium.
Any way you like your pastrami, Davis and The Eatery will make it for you. Phone: 954-876-1687 Fax: 954-876-1688. Address: 1043 North State Road 7
Margate, FL 33063.
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Testimonial:"Two days later, my wife suggested the Eatery to her massage therapist who stopped by for Davis’ pulled pork sandwich and sweet potato fries."
Connie’s text message read, “I’m at the Eatery. You’re right, the food is awesome!”
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